Left: Pair of diamond earrings, 1950s. Estimate: CHF6,500–8,500 / US$8,000–10,000 and Monture Bulgari, Sapphire and diamond brooch/bangle combination.
Right: Monture Cartier, Citrine, turquoise and diamond necklace, circa 1960. Estimate: CHF85,000–130,000 / US$100,000–150,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.
Perhaps style is the art of living well, which arguably couldn’t be done without the pleasures of great music. After all, both style and music are culture, and they go hand in hand. So, for creativity’s sake, join us on a journey through an imagined musical timeline featuring remarkable pieces on offer in the upcoming The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE on 11 November.
1820s — Bel canto
Spinel and diamond necklace, circa 1825. Estimate: CHF13,000–22,000 / US$15,000–25,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.
This necklace’s intricate structure of hoop links forms a harmony akin to Rossini's underscoring of a Bel canto aria. We see the circular-cut diamonds as the gentle arpeggios of woodwinds against a bed of upper strings, and the cushion-shaped spinels as the delicate poise of an Italian bass line, interjecting at even measures for the perfect balance. But who is the soloist whose “beautiful voice” radiates a graceful legato melody above this accompaniment? Well, it’s the wearer of course.
Property of an English Noble Family, this necklace was gifted by King George IV (1762–1830) to his mistress, Elizabeth Conyngham (née Denison), Marchioness Conyngham (1770–1861). One can only imagine the operas to which it was worn, but we think it would have been right at home at the English premiere of Vincenzo Bellini’s Norma.
1910s — A night out at Carnegie
Rock crystal, seed pearl and diamond necklace, circa 1910. Estimate: CHF12,000–19,000 / US$14,000–22,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.
The early 1910s may have been the heyday of classical music in New York, and we can think of no better place to wear this remarkable necklace than a seat in the First Tier at Carnegie Hall, perhaps to hear Sergei Rachmaninoff perform his third piano concerto under the baton of Gustav Mahler in 1910, just one year before his death. Good taste is perennial, however, and we could just as easily imagine this necklace glistening in the audience today at a performance by Pulitzer Prize-winning composer Kendrick Lamar.
1950s — Birth of the Cool
Pair of diamond earrings, 1950s. Estimate: CHF6,500–8,500 / US$8,000–10,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.
Just imagine how striking these earrings would have been in a New York jazz club on 52nd Street in the 1950s. We can almost hear a snare drum being nonchalantly caressed with a brush while a string bass rumbles mysteriously and the stage lights bounce off these baguette and brilliant-cut diamond tassels. Piano chords chime in and out between long tones from Miles Davis’ muted trumpet and the metallic surfaces in the club — from the drum rims to the ladies’ white gold jewelry, Miles’ trumpet, and the bartender’s cocktail shaker — all seem to resonate as the band heats up with the hardest, fastest, most complex jazz yet heard. Bebop had arrived, and style and elegance would never be the same.
1960s — Blue Bossa
Monture Cartier, Citrine, turquoise and diamond necklace, circa 1960. Estimate: CHF85,000–130,000 / US$100,000–150,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.
Sophisticated, enticing, and adventurous, the way this necklace rests on the skin feels like the easy pulse of Bossa Nova. A distinctive statement piece designed by Cartier and formerly in the collection of the iconic French actress Marie Bell, the five step-cut citrines suspend from a gold cord and effortlessly dance against the wearer’s contours. We can see it now — glimpses of the citrines twinkling through cocktail glasses at a chic party while the gentle voice of João Gilberto sings to us in Portuguese, inviting us to sway to the rhythms coming from his guitar. To wear such a piece today brings that subtle vivacity of 1960s Bossa Nova into the 21st century, which we welcome. After all, we could all use a little Brazilian warmth in our lives.
1980s — Never enough glam
Van Cleef & Arpels, Ruby and diamond bracelet, 'Escurial', circa 1987. Estimate: CHF65,000–100,000 / US$80,000–120,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.
Oh, to live through the zenith of glam and excess. 1987 was the year both Wall Street and American Psycho were released, Glam rock was in full force, MTV was inescapable, and our hair was unapologeticaly huge. Though much of the music and style of this time is remembered fondly, an equal amount is certainly best left in the ‘80s. Leave it to Van Cleef & Arpels to craft a bracelet in this era that met the day's tone without sacrificing a timeless allure — its openwork design a perfect showcase for the elegant setting of diamonds and rubies. Can’t you see it on the wrist of someone talking on a car phone in the back of a 1985 Mercedes Benz S-Class while Whitney Houston’s “I Wanna Dance with Somebody (Who Loves Me)” plays in the background? But it’s just as ready for anything you can throw at it today.
1990s — When life’s an arena tour
Bulgari, Gold necklace, 1990s. Estimate: CHF13,000–17,000 / US$15,000–20,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.
And onward into the 1990s with the Queen of the Power Ballad. It’s so easy to imagine such an extravagantly elegant necklace gracing the neck of Céline Dion as she filled stadiums on her 1990s arena tours. But it would be no less effective in daily life as the casual chic trend of the day filled public spaces. As the ‘90s get further away from us, we revisit the look and sound of the era with fresh eyes, and much of the style, music, jewelry, and watch design of the time is refreshed. However, in this piece, Bulgari drew on their rich design lineage to create something perfectly suited to the ‘90s and unmistakably Bulgari, and that’s why it’s so timeless.
2000s — We belong in Van Cleef & Arpels together
Van Cleef & Arpels, Turquoise and diamond brooch, 'Rose de Noël', 2000s. Estimate: CHF10,000–15,000 / US$12,000–18,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.
Is it even possible to think of mid-2000s Van Cleef & Arpels without remembering Mariah Carey's stunning comeback hit, “We Belong Together” — later hailed by Billboard as the most popular US single of the decade?
Astute viewers of the song’s music video may even recognize the butterfly ring gracing her finger, presumably the very ring VCA made for the star in celebration of her 1997 album Butterfly. It’s easy to see why the iconic diva cherishes the house, given their penchant for designing pieces that express a feminine strength, never overshadowing the grace of their wearers. In fact, you won’t actually think of Mariah Carey when seeing someone wear this Rose de Noël brooch — you’ll only be able to think about how elegant and poised they are.
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