Five Tips for Starting a Neo-Vintage Watch Collection

Five Tips for Starting a Neo-Vintage Watch Collection

What you should know before diving into the world of 1980s and ‘90s wristwatches.

What you should know before diving into the world of 1980s and ‘90s wristwatches.

Our first live auctions of fall 2024 season, PHILLIPS RELOADED: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999, and the Geneva Watch Auction: XX, take place on November 8, 9, and 10, at the Hotel President, at Quai Wilson 47, in central Geneva. The auctions include more than 195 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think they're some of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sales over the next month, including the watches highlighted in this article.


– By Logan Baker

The 1980s and 1990s were decades of radical transformation. In a world electrified by indie music, blockbusters, and the dawn of the digital age, the watchmaking industry was undergoing its own revolution. Quartz technology had threatened to render mechanical timepieces obsolete, but instead of fading into history, the horological world fought back with a spirit of innovation and creativity that birthed the neo-vintage era – defined here as the high-end wristwatches of the 1980s, 1990s, and early 2000s.

Lot 3: A 1986 Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar ref. 3940 in 18k yellow gold with champagne dial. Estimate: CHF 45,000 - 90,000

These were the years when the watchmaking industry didn’t just survive; it redefined itself. Pioneering designs, groundbreaking complications, and the rise of independent watchmakers paved the way for the thriving landscape of today. So, if you’re looking to start a wristwatch collection, there’s no better place to begin than the neo-vintage era. Here are five tips to get you started.

Understand the Significance of the Era

Before diving into your first purchase, it’s essential to appreciate what makes the neo-vintage period so special. The 1980s and 1990s were times of intense experimentation in horology. This was when the industry, threatened by the quartz crisis, turned inward to rediscover and innovate within mechanical watchmaking.

Lot 6: A circa 1995 Audemars Piguet John Shaeffer Star Wheel in platinum. Estimate: CHF 25,000 - 50,000

Companies like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and IWC Schaffhausen produced some of their most iconic pieces during this time – watches that combined traditional craftsmanship with modern mechanical know-how. But it wasn’t just the big names making waves. Independent watchmakers like Franck Muller and Daniel Roth emerged, creating unique designs that challenged the status quo. The watches of this era often feature a blend of classic and contemporary design elements, reflecting a transitional period where the industry was balancing the past with the future. To start a collection in this space is to tap into a rich narrative of resilience and ingenuity.

Focus on Pioneering Designs and Complications

The neo-vintage era is known for its innovation, and that’s where the thrill of collecting comes in. Look for watches that introduced or perfected key complications and designs. For example, consider the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, launched in 1993. This model took the already iconic Royal Oak design and pushed it into sportier, bolder territory, sparking a trend that continues to influence watch design today.

Lot 26: A 1998 A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour le Mérite ref. 701.007 in 18k white gold with blue dial. Estimate: CHF 150,000 - 300,000

Another standout is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso from the 1990s, which saw the introduction of intricate complications into its reversible case design, previously known for its elegant simplicity. Then there’s the revival of interest in perpetual calendars and chronographs that combined complexity with a new focus on user-friendliness – a hallmark of the period’s ingenuity. By focusing on watches that broke new ground, you’re not just collecting timepieces; you’re acquiring pieces of horological history.

Condition Is King – But Don’t Overlook Patina

Condition is crucial when collecting neo-vintage watches, but don’t be afraid of a little character. Watches from this era are still relatively young, so finding pieces in excellent or unworn condition is possible and desirable. However, signs of age – like slight patina on the dial or lume plots – can add to the watch’s charm and authenticity.

Lot 21: A circa 1997 Roger Dubuis H40 in 18k white gold. Estimate: CHF 25,000 - 50,000

Patina, when it has developed naturally, tells a story. It’s evidence of a watch that has lived well, that has been worn and appreciated. In the neo-vintage realm, a well-preserved but gently aged watch can often be more desirable than one that looks factory fresh. It’s a balance between condition and character – find that sweet spot, and you’ll have a collection with soul.

Research Provenance and Rarity

One of the most exciting aspects of collecting neo- vintage watches is the potential to unearth rare or historically significant pieces. Provenance can greatly enhance the value and appeal of a watch. A limited edition, a piece with known provenance, or a watch that was a milestone for the brand can make your collection stand out. Take the Patek Philippe Ref. 3940, for instance – a perpetual calendar that debuted in the mid-1980s and became a benchmark for the brand’s complications.

Lot 30: A 2001 Chopard L.U.C. 1860 in 18k white gold with blue dial. Estimate: CHF 8,000 - 16,000

Knowing the history behind a model and finding one with complete documentation or a known lineage can significantly increase its desirability. As with any collection, knowledge is power. Dive deep into the history of the watches you’re considering, and you might just find a hidden gem.

Buy What You Love – And Wear It

It’s easy to get caught up in the chase for rarity or potential investment value, but at the end of the day, the best collections are those that reflect the collector’s personal taste. The neo-vintage era is full of diverse designs – from the bold and experimental to the classically elegant. Choose watches that resonate with you, pieces that you’ll enjoy wearing and admiring on your wrist. Remember, these watches were built to last, but they were also made to be worn.

Lot 16: A circa 1993 Blancpain World Time prototype in 18k yellow gold. Estimate: CHF 15,000 - 30,000

The beauty of the neo-vintage era is that it’s not so distant as to make these watches museum pieces. They are still contemporary enough to be worn daily, allowing you to enjoy both their history and their functionality. Starting a wristwatch collection focused on the neo-vintage era is an exciting journey into one of the most dynamic periods in horological history. By understanding the significance of the era, focusing on pioneering designs, balancing condition with character, researching provenance, and, most importantly, buying what you love, you’ll build a collection that not only holds value but also tells a story – one that is as much about innovation and resilience as it is about style and sophistication. So go ahead, take the plunge, and let the world of neo- vintage watchmaking take you on a journey through time.

You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Phillips RELOADED catalog right here.


About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.

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About Logan Baker

Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.


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