Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is excited to announce The Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction, taking place from 12:00 PM HKT, Friday, September 20, to 2:00 PM HKT, Friday, September 27. Featuring more than 135 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. It even includes the rare Guy Ellia Jumbo Chrono featured in this article.
Guy Ellia, a name that resonates with those in the upper echelons of the haute joaillerie world, is far less recognized in the realm of horology. Yet, his foray into watchmaking has yielded some exceptional timepieces that stand as masterpieces of both design and engineering. Among them, the Guy Ellia Jumbo Chrono deserves special recognition – a complex and luxurious chronograph that is as much a work of art as it is a precision instrument.
A Convergence of Craftsmanship and Innovation
To understand the significance of the Jumbo Chrono, it’s essential to appreciate the background of the man behind it. Born in Tunisia in 1950, Ellia moved to Paris as an infant and, by 1973, was apprenticing as a diamond cutter under the legendary Gabriel Tolkowsky in Antwerp. His early career was rooted in precision and artistry, skills that seamlessly translated into his later ventures in jewelry and watchmaking. In 1999, after decades of success in fine jewelry, Ellia launched his eponymous watch brand, embracing a philosophy of “doing more with less” while keeping craftsmanship at the forefront.
The Jumbo Chrono is the epitome of Ellia’s dual expertise. Combining his jeweler’s eye for detail with a horologist’s respect for engineering, this timepiece presents a strikingly original take on the chronograph.
Where Aesthetics Meet Mechanics
The first thing you notice about the Jumbo Chrono is its matte-finished 18k pink gold case, which deviates from the typical mirror-polished cases seen in traditional luxury chronographs. The matte finish lends a more sophisticated and understated appearance, making it versatile for both formal and casual occasions. Sized at an imposing 50mm in diameter, the Jumbo Chrono demands attention, yet its 11.5mm thickness ensures it remains wearable, even for those unaccustomed to larger watches.
Adding to the allure is the semi-skeletonized dial. Rather than revealing the entire movement, the dial artfully exposes select components, allowing the wearer to appreciate the mechanics beneath without overwhelming the design. The absence of a conventional dial structure, combined with subtle cutouts that reveal the finely finished wheels and bridges, exemplifies Guy Ellia’s penchant for mixing elegance with modernity.
Perhaps the most captivating feature of the dial is the diamond-set chronograph hand. Instead of a traditional counterweight, Ellia employs a diamond—likely around 0.25 carats—as the tail, lending an unmistakable touch of luxury. This ingenious choice also enhances the legibility of the chronograph’s registers, adding both functionality and beauty.
Functional Elegance
The sub-dials of the Jumbo Chrono are as meticulously arranged as they are functional. Positioned at 12, 9, 3, and 6 o’clock, they display hours, minutes, a 12-hour counter, a 30-minute counter, and the seconds, respectively. The chronograph's second hand takes center stage, allowing the wearer to use it as a secondary time zone—a testament to the watch’s dual-purpose design.
A rotating date disc at two o'clock further enhances the dial’s symmetry. Instead of a typical date window, the date is displayed via cutouts on the disc, read against a contrasting white background. It’s a small yet significant detail, showcasing Guy Ellia’s dedication to maintaining both form and function in his designs.
Under the Hood: F. Piguet PGE 1185 Caliber
Powering the Jumbo Chrono is the F. Piguet PGE 1185 automatic movement, an established and respected chronograph caliber known for its reliability and precision. Beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offering a 45-hour power reserve, this movement is finely tuned for both daily wear and precise timekeeping. The movement is also beautifully decorated, with the full circular rotor—engraved with the Guy Ellia logo and rhodium-plated—shaped to mimic the design of alloy wheels. This design choice not only reinforces the watch's modern aesthetics but also cleverly draws parallels to the high-performance mechanics of an automobile.
Crafting the Case: Forged Carbon Fiber and Pink Gold
While many high-end watch brands use forged carbon fiber in their cases, Guy Ellia's method stands apart. Rather than compressing the case in a mold, the carbon fiber for the Jumbo Chrono is meticulously milled from a solid block of forged carbon, a process that is both costly and time-consuming. The hardness of forged carbon rivals that of diamonds, requiring frequent tool changes during machining. The resulting case is both exceptionally durable and light, making the Jumbo Chrono comfortable to wear despite its large dimensions.
One of the hallmarks of Ellia’s design philosophy is his attention to detail, as evidenced by the low-profile PVD pushers that sit flush with the crown guards—a departure from earlier models where the pushers were more pronounced. This subtle adjustment not only improves the watch’s ergonomic feel but also contributes to the overall sleekness of the design.
Despite its undeniable craftsmanship and innovation, the Jumbo Chrono flies under the radar compared to other luxury chronographs from more mainstream brands. This relative anonymity only adds to its appeal for discerning collectors who seek uniqueness and exclusivity. Limited to just 200 pieces annually, the Jumbo Chrono is not a watch you’ll often see in the wild—yet, it has been appreciated enough to earn a nomination at the 2007 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève in the Sports Watch category.
In many ways, the Guy Ellia Jumbo Chrono is an insider’s timepiece – a watch that rewards those with a deep appreciation for both horology and high jewelry. For anyone fortunate enough to encounter one, the Jumbo Chrono offers a compelling blend of technical prowess, artisanal excellence, and timeless design.
The Jumbo Chrono encapsulates the essence of Guy Ellia’s approach to watchmaking: unconventional yet classic, luxurious yet functional. While it may not have the widespread recognition of other high-end chronographs, it stands as a testament to what can be achieved when a master jeweler turns his focus to the world of haute horlogerie. For those in search of a watch that breaks the mold—both figuratively and literally—the Jumbo Chrono is a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered.
You can view the complete catalog for the Phillips Watches Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction, right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
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