Welcome to our series highlighting the exceptional watches available through PERPETUAL, Phillips’ boutique service offering immediate access to the world’s rarest and most desirable timepieces. You can view all currently available watches by stopping in at our London headquarters at 30 Berkeley Square, or by visiting Phillips PERPETUAL online. Our new "Buy Now" button makes acquiring the watch of your dreams easier than ever.
– By Logan Baker
The first gem-set Royal Oak was the 18k yellow-gold ref. 8756, featuring 80 diamonds on the rim of its bezel, that was released in the late 1970s, not long after the introduction of the inaugural Royal Oak, the ref. 5402ST.
The fact that Audemars Piguet didn’t wait too long to produce a diamond-set reference is a testimony to the Swiss brand's historic upmarket clientele as well as its open attitude toward experimenting with the Royal Oak design.
Vintage and neo-vintage gem-set Royal Oaks are a rare find and tend to be very sought-after among collectors. Due to the Royal Oak's ultra-thin case, any diamonds initially could only be set around the rim of the bezel, instead of on top of it.
Diamonds were naturally the first choice for the Royal Oak, but over the years, Audemars Piguet has used various precious stones, including emeralds and rubies. Of course, the gem-setting has moved on from the rim of the bezel to almost every where on the dial, case, and bracelet.
One particularly memorable example of a vintage gem-set Royal Oak is the ref. 25659BA, a diamond-set openworked perpetual calendar made in a run of only four pieces between 1988 and 1995.
Royal Oaks that are flush with gems or diamonds are a much more common sight in Audemars Piguet's contemporary catalog. A quick look at the brand's current online listings reveals 37 gem-set Royal Oaks, 14 gem-set Royal Oak Offshores, and a pair of gem-set Royal Oak Concepts.
In fact, just under 30 percent of all Royal Oaks currently listed on the Audemars Piguet website, as of October 2023, fall under the gem-set category.
The watch we're highlighting today, however, is not currently accessible on Audemars Piguet digital catalog. It's a Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon featuring a gorgeous "rainbow" setting (ref. 26227BC.YY.D326CR.01-A) that recently arrived at our Phillips PERPETUAL boutique in London.
A total of 468 brilliant-cut, multi-colored gemstones of 12 different types are set on almost every visible surface of the 18k white gold 38.5mm × 11.4mm watch, both on the exterior case and the exposed sections of the dial inside the sapphire crystal – a small number of stones have even been set on the flying tourbillon cage!
Oh, and don't forget the 44 mulit-colored stones perfectly set on the exterior of the 18k white gold folding clasp (see above image) that comes paired with a hand-stitched alligator strap in dark blue. The crown at three o'clock is also set with a translucent sapphire cabochon.
The movement inside the watch is the manual-wind Audemars Piguet caliber 2951, with a flying tourbillon and a 77-hour power reserve. It beats at 3 Hz (21,600 vph), runs in 17 jewels, and comprises a total of 225 components.
This is the first example of this specific Royal Oak Concept to appear at Phillips and is the only example currently available for sale – anywhere.
The watch dates to 2022, is in superb condition, comes complete with its full suite of accessories, including the original box and additional rubber strap, and has a price of £265,000. You can learn more right here.
About Phillips PERPETUAL
Phillips PERPETUAL offers a boutique experience to clients for both the sale and purchase of fine and rare watches, in London’s Berkeley Square and the Gstaad Palace, in Switzerland.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
Visit Phillips PERPETUAL /
30 Berkeley Square, London, United Kingdom, W1J 6EX (map)
Monday through Friday, 10:00 AM – 17:30 PM
Contact & Consignment Enquiries /
00 44 207 901 7916
perpetual@phillips.com
@phillipsperpetual
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Recommended Reading
A Sparkling Legend: A Brief History of the Gem-Set Royal Oak