Press | Phillips

06 October 2025

PHILLIPS UNVEILS HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE GENEVA JEWELS AUCTION: V

PRESS RELEASE

 

PHILLIPS UNVEILS HIGHLIGHTS FROM

THE GENEVA JEWELS AUCTION: V

 

A 6.95 Carat Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink Diamond to Lead the Sale on 10 November

Alongside Old-Cut Diamonds, Rare Coloured Gemstones, and Historic Jewels from The Vanderbilt Family 

 

GENEVA – 6 OCTOBER 2025 – Phillips is delighted to reveal highlights of The Geneva Jewels Auction: V, taking place on 10 November 2025. Leading the sale is a Superb 6.95-carat Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond, a true masterpiece of exceptional colour and brilliance. Alongside this extraordinary jewel is a curated selection of rare coloured gemstones, historic pieces from The Vanderbilt Family Jewels, and iconic designs from the world’s most celebrated maisons, including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Bulgari, and Graff. Highlights from the sale will tour internationally to New York, Singapore, Taipei, and London before concluding in Geneva, where the full exhibition will be on view at the Hôtel President from 5 to 10 November.

Benoît Repellin, Phillips’ Worldwide Head of Jewellery, said, “We are immensely proud to present The Geneva Jewels Auction: V, where the spotlight falls on both unprecedented gemstone rarities and jewels of historical provenance. From the rare Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond to an old-cut Golconda stone of exceptional character, each jewel tells a story of geological wonder and artisanal mastery. We anticipate a season where collectors across the globe engage in spirited competition, particularly for pieces of superior colour, clarity, and origin. We look forward to welcoming collectors and enthusiasts to our international highlights tour ahead of the auction in Geneva this November.”

Exceptional Gemstones

Among the top lots of the sale is a remarkable 18.09-carat step-cut Kashmir sapphire, celebrated for its vivid, velvety blue colour and complete absence of heat treatment, an increasingly rare combination in today’s market. Its exceptional saturation and natural state place it among the finest examples of Kashmir sapphires to appear at auction in recent years. Also featured is a Paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring, set with an oval Paraiba tourmaline weighing 20.08 carats. Known for its electrifying neon-blue to green hues, Paraiba tourmalines of this size and quality are exceptionally rare, making this ring a true collector’s treasure.

In light of current interest in old-cut diamonds, sparked in part by Taylor Swift’s engagement ring, Phillips is pleased to offer a very fine Light Pink Brown diamond weighing 10.08 carats, Type IIa, with an old cushion shape of Golconda origin, according to a GGTL monograph. While today the term “Golconda diamond” is often used more broadly to describe high quality Type II diamonds, in this particular case the stone's properties correspond closely to those of historic Golconda diamonds mined in the Deccan region of India. It exhibits the defining qualities of those legendary stones – exceptional purity, clarity, old-world craftsmanship. A detailed study by Dr. Thomas Hainschwang of GGTL Laboratories draws compelling parallels between this diamond and Golconda stones, highlighting its shared characteristics with historic examples, including the famed ‘Grand Condé’ pink diamond.

Important Sapphire and diamond ring

Step-cut Kashmir sapphire weighing 18.09 carats

Estimate: USD 2,200,000-2,800,000 / CHF 1,800,000-2,240,000

Very fine Light Pink Brown diamond weighing 10.08 carats,

Type IIa, old-cut, Golconda.

Estimate: USD 450,000-650,000 / CHF 360,000-520,000

 

Fine ruby and diamond ring weighing 4.95 carats, Burma, no heat

Estimate: USD 300,000-400,000 /

CHF 240,000-320,000

 

Pair of Brilliant-cut diamond ear studs

weighing 8.00 and 8.28 carats, D Colour, VVS1 Clarity, Excellent Polish & Symmetry

Estimate: USD 600,000-850,000 /

CHF 480,000-680,000

Paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring

weighing 20.08 carats

Estimate: USD 250,000-350,000 /

CHF 200,000-280,000
       

The auction also features a dazzling array of signed jewels from the 20th and 21st centuries, each reflecting the enduring creativity and craftsmanship of the world’s most prestigious maisons. Graff leads with a striking pair of Fancy Yellow diamond earrings, each set with octagonal step-cut stones weighing 20.33 and 21.38 carats, VVS1 Clarity. Their bold symmetry and exceptional clarity exemplify Graff’s mastery of modern diamond cutting and design. Chaumet’s refined elegance is represented by a Colombian emerald and diamond ring of 6.74 carats with no oil, a testament to the purity of the stone and the precision of its setting. Complementing this is a ruby and diamond ring featuring unheated Burmese rubies of 4.18 and 2.20 carats, gems prized for their vivid colour.

Graff

Pair of Fancy Yellow diamond and diamond earrings weighing 20.33 and 21.38 carats

Estimate: USD 300,000-500,000 /

CHF 240,000-400,000

 

Chaumet

Emerald and diamond ring

weighing 6.74 carats, Colombia, no oil

Estimate: USD 220,000-320,000 /

CHF 180,000-260,000

Chaumet

Ruby and diamond ring weighing 4.18 and 2.20 carats, Burma, no heat

Estimate: USD 100,000-150,000 /

CHF 80,000-120,000

 

 Magnificent Jewels

Among the most historically significant pieces in the sale is the ‘Plumes’ necklace by Jean Schlumberger, created in the late 1950s in diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and gold for Fiona Campbell-Walter, Baroness Thyssen-Bornemisza. The necklace carries both artistic and cultural weight, having been worn by the Baroness in the March 1962 issue of Vogue. Its vibrant palette and sculptural elegance exemplify Schlumberger’s imaginative genius and his ability to transform nature into wearable art.

 

Van Cleef & Arpels brings historical resonance to the sale with a 1920s diamond sautoir, emblematic of the Art Deco era and set with a 10.79-carat step-cut diamond. Offered in the centennial year of Art Deco design, the piece celebrates a century of geometric elegance and timeless sophistication. Pieces by Cartier span the maison’s heritage and bold innovation. A 1904 ruby and diamond bracelet, accompanied by matching earrings and a brooch, evokes early 20th-century refinement. In contrast, the ‘Panthère’ bangle, crafted in emerald, onyx, and diamond, channels Cartier’s iconic feline motif in a striking, contemporary form.

Schlumberger

Magnificent diamond, ruby, sapphire and gold necklace, ‘Plumes’, circa late 1950s

Estimate: USD 300,000-500,000 / CHF 240,000-400,000

Cartier

Ruby and diamond bracelet, pair of earrings, and a brooch, 1904

Estimate: USD 45,000-80,000 /

CHF 38,000-65,000

Cartier

Emerald, onyx and diamond bangle, ‘Panthère’

Estimate: USD 40,000-60,000 /

CHF 32,000-48,000
           

 

Complementing the selection is Bulgari’s ‘Serpenti’ pendant necklace, set with diamonds and tourmaline. Its sinuous lines and vibrant colour exemplify the house’s signature blend of sensuality and geometry. Also on offer is Bulgari’s emerald and enamel ‘Serpenti’ belt, circa 1970, a striking example of the maison’s enduring fascination with the serpent motif, merging historical allure with contemporary elegance. Also featured is an Important sapphire and diamond tiara, crown and necklace combination from the second half of the 19th century, a regal and versatile jewel that reflects the grandeur and craftsmanship of its era.

 

 

 

 

Bulgari

Diamond and tourmaline pendent necklace, ‘Serpenti’

Estimate: USD 40,000-60,000 / CHF 32,000-48,000

Bulgari

Emerald and enamel 'Serpenti' belt, circa 1970

Estimate: USD 220,000-300,000 / CHF180,000-240,000

Important sapphire and diamond tiara/crown/necklace combination, second half of the 19th century

Estimate: USD 300,000-400,00 / CHF 240,000-320,000
     

 

Chaumet

Sapphire and diamond bracelet, circa 1938

Sapphire weighing 13.85 carats, Burma, no heat

Estimate: USD 170,000-250,000 / CHF 130,000-200,000

Van Cleef & Arpels

Diamond sautoir, 1920s

Set with a step-cut diamond weighing 10.79 carats

Estimate: USD 300,000-500,000 / CHF 240,000-400,000

 

AUCTION

10 November 2025, 3pm CET

Auction viewing: 5 - 10 November

Location: Hotel President, Quai Wilson 47, Geneva, Switzerland, 1211 

Click here for more information: https://www.phillips.com/auction/CH060425

 

HIGHLIGHTS TOUR

Singapore: 10 - 11 October

The St. Regis Singapore, 29 Tanglin Rd, Singapore 247911

Taipei: 18 - 19 October

Taipei Marriott Hotel, 199 Lequn 2nd Road, Zhongshan District, Taipei

London: 24 - 26 October

30 Berkeley Square, London, W1J 6EX

Geneva: 5 - 10 November

Hôtel President, Quai Wilson 47, Geneva, 1211