













812
Swiss
A large, extremely elegant and vibrant yellow gold, enamel and pearl-set pendant watch with rose-form case, center seconds, enamel dial, made for the Chinese market, former property of the Time Museum
- Estimate
- HK$320,000 - 640,000€36,200 - 72,500$41,000 - 82,100
HK$825,500
Lot Details
- Manufacturer
- Swiss
- Year
- Circa 1810
- Material
- Yellow gold, pearls and enamel
- Calibre
- Manual, gilt cylinder movement, plain three-arm balance
- Dimensions
- 61mm diameter
Specialist
Catalogue Essay
In a letter to Britain's King George III, China's Emperor Qianlong stated, "Our Celestial Empire possesses all things in prolific abundance and lacks no produce within its own borders. Therefore, there is no need to import the manufactures of outside barbarians in exchange for your own produce". However, there was one notable exception.
Since the 16th century, when Jesuit missionaries introduced the first timepieces and automata to China, these mechanical devices captivated the Imperial court. The exotic artifacts seemed to function as if by magic, sparking a profound fascination among their observers. Demand surged, and foreign makers were compensated handsomely in gold. Paradoxically, although Western methods of measuring time were entirely unknown in China, significant collections of timepieces were assembled there. This enthusiasm can be attributed to the intricate automata and the delicate enamel paintings that adorned these pieces.
The most exquisite "Chinese" watches were produced by Genevan manufactories. However, due to the lack of direct contact with the Chinese market, these Genevan makers relied on English representatives to facilitate exports.
After peaking around 1810, the watch trade with China faced disruption due to the Opium Wars (1839-1842 and 1856-1860), which marked a significant shift in diplomatic and commercial relations between the British Empire and China.
The present pendant watch is a particularly special example among the various pocket watches made for the Chinese market. Lavishly decorated with enamel, the bezel features flowers and scrolls in shades of white, orange, and blue, using both opaque and translucent enamel against a black background. This is merely a prelude to the fully enameled caseback, which showcases a stunning depiction of a rose. The shape of the case itself resembles a real rose, while the caseback is beautifully enameled in pink tones, mimicking the appearance of an opening rose with overlapping petals. The opening of flowers is highly welcomed in Chinese culture, symbolizing prosperity and good fortune. Partially edged with pearls and featuring pearl-set stamens highlighted by translucent green enamel foliage, the caseband is adorned with rose leaves in opaque green enamel, evoking the image of a flourishing garden. The cleverly concealed hinge on the caseband contributes to a luxurious and seamless design, often reserved for important timepieces like this.
With an intriguing provenance, the gilt cuvette is engraved: “Mary P. Mercer 17th December 1863 from the Summer Palace, Peking, 17th October 1863”. In October 1860, during the final stages of the Second Opium War, the Summer Palace in China was captured and systematically looted by invading British and French troops. Many valuable artifacts and collectibles were dispersed, and the palace was ultimately destroyed. This particular timepiece may be one of the rare examples preserved without damage from the looting, eventually passing into the hands of collector Mary P. Mercer in 1863. The last time this watch was offered publicly was in 1999 from the collection of the Time Museum, and we are privileged to present this magnificent piece once again in the auction scene.
Since the 16th century, when Jesuit missionaries introduced the first timepieces and automata to China, these mechanical devices captivated the Imperial court. The exotic artifacts seemed to function as if by magic, sparking a profound fascination among their observers. Demand surged, and foreign makers were compensated handsomely in gold. Paradoxically, although Western methods of measuring time were entirely unknown in China, significant collections of timepieces were assembled there. This enthusiasm can be attributed to the intricate automata and the delicate enamel paintings that adorned these pieces.
The most exquisite "Chinese" watches were produced by Genevan manufactories. However, due to the lack of direct contact with the Chinese market, these Genevan makers relied on English representatives to facilitate exports.
After peaking around 1810, the watch trade with China faced disruption due to the Opium Wars (1839-1842 and 1856-1860), which marked a significant shift in diplomatic and commercial relations between the British Empire and China.
The present pendant watch is a particularly special example among the various pocket watches made for the Chinese market. Lavishly decorated with enamel, the bezel features flowers and scrolls in shades of white, orange, and blue, using both opaque and translucent enamel against a black background. This is merely a prelude to the fully enameled caseback, which showcases a stunning depiction of a rose. The shape of the case itself resembles a real rose, while the caseback is beautifully enameled in pink tones, mimicking the appearance of an opening rose with overlapping petals. The opening of flowers is highly welcomed in Chinese culture, symbolizing prosperity and good fortune. Partially edged with pearls and featuring pearl-set stamens highlighted by translucent green enamel foliage, the caseband is adorned with rose leaves in opaque green enamel, evoking the image of a flourishing garden. The cleverly concealed hinge on the caseband contributes to a luxurious and seamless design, often reserved for important timepieces like this.
With an intriguing provenance, the gilt cuvette is engraved: “Mary P. Mercer 17th December 1863 from the Summer Palace, Peking, 17th October 1863”. In October 1860, during the final stages of the Second Opium War, the Summer Palace in China was captured and systematically looted by invading British and French troops. Many valuable artifacts and collectibles were dispersed, and the palace was ultimately destroyed. This particular timepiece may be one of the rare examples preserved without damage from the looting, eventually passing into the hands of collector Mary P. Mercer in 1863. The last time this watch was offered publicly was in 1999 from the collection of the Time Museum, and we are privileged to present this magnificent piece once again in the auction scene.
Full-Cataloguing
Provenance
Literature