Patek Philippe - Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 Geneva Friday, November 8, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: Circa 1989
    Reference No: 3974
    Movement No: 1'906'063
    Case No: 2'915'322
    Material: 18k white gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. R27Q, 39 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: 18k white gold Patek Philippe pin buckle
    Dimensions: 36mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe fitted box, Certificate of Origin, setting pin, product literature, leather portfolio.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Patek Philippe’s minute repeater perpetual calendar reference 3974 was launched in 1989 to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary, featuring an in-house self-winding movement, it was the world’s most complicated wristwatch at the time.

    The movement beating in the heart of this masterpiece is Patek Philippe’s caliber 27RQ, an impressively thin movement measuring just 6.8mm, comprised of 467 components. Another surprising feature is the micro-rotor, which provides an unobtrusive view into the superbly finished movement. The historical reference 3974 additionally stands-out as the first automatic-winding, minute repeating watch ever made, beating the Blancpain reference 5335 by a few months.

    Even though the case architecture is derived from the iconic reference 2499 with its stepped arched lugs, the case is undoubtedly modern in its design. Patek Philippe turned to Jean-Pierre Hagmann, a living legend among case makers, to create a case that would not only be a beautiful vessel for the watch but could also act as a superb sound carrier for the repeater’s delicate chimes. These minute repeaters are known to be Monsieur Hagmann’s favorite creations for the brand, and the early examples with his initials are coveted by collectors. He began his career creating watch bracelets at Gay Frères and went on to create watch cases for the most illustrious Swiss brands – even creating the 26 cases for Patek Philippe’s Star Calibre 2000 in six weeks. The chimes in the present timepiece are crystal clear, perfectly-timed, loud, and extremely pleasant to the ear - thanks to Patek Philippe’s technical expertise and Hagmann’s savoir faire.

    Patek Philippe discontinued the 3974 in 2000, and given how complex it was to manufacture, very few examples were made over its 11-year production period. In fact, the present example in white gold, fresh to the market, is the rarest of all case metals and is only the fifth known, according to scholarship.

  • Artist Biography

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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Ref. 3974
An ultra rare and historic white gold minute repeating perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phase, leap year and 24-hour indications with certificate of origin

Circa 1989
36mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

Estimate
CHF600,000 - 1,200,000 
€640,000-1,280,000
$700,000-1,400,000

Sold for CHF1,117,600

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
aghotbi@phillips.com

 

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88

tto@phillips.com

 

 

 

Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999

Geneva Auction 8 November 2024