The Nautilus - alongside the first luxury steel sport’s watch models from the 1970s - is a remarkable example of the courage and independence of some Swiss watchmakers. Against many if not all the stylistic codes that ruled watchmaking until then, a luxury steel sport’s watch was created and its production went on for decades even amidst lukewarm sales and - at least at the beginning - widespread criticism. And yet, in one of the most spectacular examples of “he who laughs last laughs better” ever, Patek Philippe proved that they had managed - about 40 years ago! - to identify what is today the mainstream trend in watchmaking.
Thus, from its humble beginning as a simple “three hander” with date, the Nautilus line has slowly evolved and expanded. Slowly is the key word, especially in the first three decades of its existence: in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the courage of following the traced route (a line of luxury sport’s watches) went alongside an incredibly careful and lengthy R&D process. In fact, the first experiments regarded case metal and size. It was not until 1998 - with the reference “Comet” 3710 - that a novel complication (power reserve) was introduced. Since then, however, the line has steadily expanded with moon phase models, annual and perpetual calendar pieces, and travel time models.
Reference 5990 is one of the results of such a blooming. First released in stainless steel in 2014, the model competes with perpetual calendar reference 5740 for the sceptre of “most complicated” Nautilus, as it features a chronograph and travel/dual time complication - with dedicated night/day indications for “home” and “local” time. It is a testament to Patek Philippe’s excellence in design and technical flair: the fact that two complications requiring external pushers (as opposed to calendar complications, which do not require a “button” to operate) were chosen to be fitted into a Nautilus case - which due to its specific shape is very difficult to modify - is more than surprising. In this instance, the chronograph pushers are subtly fitted into the left side of the case, with remarkably little aesthetic “white noise”. The pushers for setting the second time zone are even more cleverly placed, as they are incorporate into the left protrusion of the case. As, normally, this location holds the screws that lock the case shut, the entirety of the case had to be technically rethought. Truly, a momentous effort on the company’s part.
The pink gold version, released this year, is without a doubt one of the most sought-after models currently on the market, virtually impossible to acquire at retailers. A glance is however sufficient to understand why: the piece is an absolute masterpiece of design; the massive pink gold case finds a somewhat more lighthearted balance in the superb metallic blue dial. Hardly ever a full pink gold watch has been so versatile, equally fitting for a day on a yacht in the bay of St. Tropez as well as for a power lunch at a London private club.
The present timepiece is offered in absolutely mint condition and complete of all its original accessories.
All proceeds exceeding the cost for the consignor will be donated to charities supporting access to medical care for families in need and orphanages.
