908

Patek Philippe

Ref. 96

Calatrava

A rare and attractive yellow gold wristwatch with small seconds, black dial and bracelet

Estimate
HK$120,000 - 240,000
€13,400 - 26,800
$15,400 - 30,800
HK$622,300
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Patek Philippe
Year
1937
Reference No
96
Movement No
827’828
Case No
295’014
Model Name
Calatrava
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Manual, cal. 12-120 PS, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
14K yellow gold bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
14K yellow gold folding clasp engraved with initials "GTK"
Dimensions
30.5mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed
Accessories
Delivered with Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming the date of manufacture for the present timepiece in 1937 and its subsequent date of sale 24th August 1937, as well as its black dial and gold indexes.

Catalogue Essay

The Patek Philippe ref. 96 is not just an archetypal wristwatch by the maison, not just a Calatrava, it is “THE” Calatrava that paved the way for decades of profound innovation to come. Sweeping away the misfortune and shelf dust from the great depression, the ref. 96 saved Patek Philippe from the turmoil thanks to the Stern family. Debuted from 1932 until 1973, the 96 was inspired by the Bauhaus aesthetic canon of "form follows function," resulting in a timeless purity and harmony of case lines, still echoed today in the firm's designs. Bearing in mind that there was nothing alike during the era, its success prompted numerous variations, featuring different dial and hand types, as well as calibre modifications with different seconds indication including center seconds, seconds hand at six o’clock, and very rare "no-second" variants, which adds to the model’s design purity.

Sophisticated and elegant, the Antoine Gerlach-designed case with long downturned lugs and a large flat bezel has remained relevant for the last 90 years. The reference 96 was most often cased in yellow gold, as well as in stainless steel, pink gold, white gold, and more rarely, in platinum.

Part of the second series of the 96, the present example from 1937 confirmed by the Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives is an exceptional outlier from the regular production. Featuring an original black dial uncommon for the period, the timepieces features elegant dauphine hands , chemin-de-fer and the early long signature at 12; most importantly the extract confirms its black dial origin. Well-preserved for its age, the hallmark on the caseback remains intact, the case proportion is balanced. According to our research, approximately 90 examples with black dial in yellow gold are known in the market.

Patek Philippe is cherished by collectors for their technical prowess and timeless design. Fresh-to-the-market, the present example is a tribute to both exquisite design and the timelessness of Patek Philippe.

Patek Philippe

Swiss | 1839

Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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