















804
Ilbery
A highly rare and attractive pearl-set yellow gold openface Empire-styled pocket watch with white enamel dial, center seconds, duplex escapements and polychrome enamel painting, made for the Chinese Market
- Estimate
- HK$160,000 - 320,000€18,100 - 36,200$20,500 - 41,000
HK$355,600
Lot Details
- Manufacturer
- Ilbery
- Year
- Circa 1820s
- Case No
- 6105
- Material
- Yellow gold, pearl, enamel
- Calibre
- Manual, duplex movement
- Dimensions
- 60mm diameter
- Signed
- Movement signed
Specialist
Catalogue Essay
British watchmaker William Ilbery (1760-1839) is considered the most influential figure of his time with immense contribution to the development of Chinese Market timepieces. So important that he is known as the Father of Montre Chinoise caliber. As the English pioneered the export of timepieces to the Far East, Ilbery established strong collaborations with Swiss artisans for movements and enamel work, leveraging the significant political and commercial relationships between Britain and China. During this period, leading watchmaker Jaquet-Droz even opened a branch in London to capitalize on the lucrative trade.
Ilbery's peak years, from 1790 to 1830, coincided with the artistry of renowned enamelists such as Dupont, Richter, and Lissignol. The watch cases he produced often featured designs inspired by classical mythology, Swiss landscapes, and allegorical themes like Faith, Hope, and Love. Portraits on these watches are extremely rare.
At the beginning of the 19th century, there was no tradition of Swiss enamellers on China soil, raising questions about how "master" portraits were communicated back to Europe. By the late 19th century, photography emerged as a tool, and drawings from the 1860s onwards exist. The vibrant colors and gold flecks in the costumes suggest that some portraits may have originated from glass paintings, a popular Chinese technique.
In 1836, Ilbery relocated to Fleurier and later travelled to Macao and Canton, where he befriended fellow watchmaker Edoard Bovet from Neuchâtel who also had outstanding contribution from Switzerland’s conquest into the Chinese Market. His early designs were rooted in English style, featuring full plate movements and duplex escapements, but later reflected the influence of the Lepine caliber's free-standing barrels from Jaquet-Droz. His cases were crafted with the highest quality, lavishly decorated by top Genevan enamellists, particularly Jean-François-Victor Dupont.
The present 60mm diameter Empire-styled gem from circa 1820 previously part of the Samuel N. Tonkin collection has been kept in private hands for 28 years. A charming example, the reverse is finely decorated with a polychrome enamelled scene of a courtier and courtesan in soft pastel palette with detailed drapery works on their outfit. The scene depicted in the neo-rocaille, neo-Louis XV style, which was very in vogue in the 19th century, demonstrates the taste of the Chinese market for this type of motif. Framed with elegant split pearls, the caseband and pendant are flourished with lozenges and florets turquoise, blue and red enamel that gives the timepiece an imperial appeal. Powered by the “Chinese Caliber”, a gilt duplex movement with beautiful foliage, scrolls and paterae engravings, it also features a five-arm polished steel balance wheel with a diamond endstone on the bridge. A once in a blue moon opportunity to acquire a museum worthy timepiece for over 200 years old to your private collection, this is a trophy that is not only beautiful for its look, but also a part of horological history where the East meets West.
Ilbery's peak years, from 1790 to 1830, coincided with the artistry of renowned enamelists such as Dupont, Richter, and Lissignol. The watch cases he produced often featured designs inspired by classical mythology, Swiss landscapes, and allegorical themes like Faith, Hope, and Love. Portraits on these watches are extremely rare.
At the beginning of the 19th century, there was no tradition of Swiss enamellers on China soil, raising questions about how "master" portraits were communicated back to Europe. By the late 19th century, photography emerged as a tool, and drawings from the 1860s onwards exist. The vibrant colors and gold flecks in the costumes suggest that some portraits may have originated from glass paintings, a popular Chinese technique.
In 1836, Ilbery relocated to Fleurier and later travelled to Macao and Canton, where he befriended fellow watchmaker Edoard Bovet from Neuchâtel who also had outstanding contribution from Switzerland’s conquest into the Chinese Market. His early designs were rooted in English style, featuring full plate movements and duplex escapements, but later reflected the influence of the Lepine caliber's free-standing barrels from Jaquet-Droz. His cases were crafted with the highest quality, lavishly decorated by top Genevan enamellists, particularly Jean-François-Victor Dupont.
The present 60mm diameter Empire-styled gem from circa 1820 previously part of the Samuel N. Tonkin collection has been kept in private hands for 28 years. A charming example, the reverse is finely decorated with a polychrome enamelled scene of a courtier and courtesan in soft pastel palette with detailed drapery works on their outfit. The scene depicted in the neo-rocaille, neo-Louis XV style, which was very in vogue in the 19th century, demonstrates the taste of the Chinese market for this type of motif. Framed with elegant split pearls, the caseband and pendant are flourished with lozenges and florets turquoise, blue and red enamel that gives the timepiece an imperial appeal. Powered by the “Chinese Caliber”, a gilt duplex movement with beautiful foliage, scrolls and paterae engravings, it also features a five-arm polished steel balance wheel with a diamond endstone on the bridge. A once in a blue moon opportunity to acquire a museum worthy timepiece for over 200 years old to your private collection, this is a trophy that is not only beautiful for its look, but also a part of horological history where the East meets West.
Full-Cataloguing
Provenance