Animals and Craftsmanship: Jewels & Jadeite Hong Kong
Animals have been a longstanding inspiration for jewelers, popularized since the 19th century. This selection of works will be offered in our Jewels & Jadeite sale in Hong Kong on 8 July 2020.
Body pavé-set with numerous sapphires, tsavorite garnets and lazulites; highlighted with brilliant-cut diamonds and a lapis lazuli eye
Feathers set with circular-cut sapphires, further embellished by tsavorite garnets, emeralds and paraíba tourmaline fringes
18 karat white gold
Signed Chopard and numbered 3251445 857724
Inner circumference approximately 175mm
With a signed wooden presentation box and a Chopard certificate
Catalogue Essay
Throughout history, peacocks have been appreciated for their magnificent plumage which has long been considered something of a spectacle. Originating from India, the giant bird was associated with Argus in Greek mythology, who transferred his hundred eyes to the peacock’s tail upon his death. The bird came to symbolize luxury, vanity and pride in Western culture, whilst representing beauty and nobility in Asia.
During the mid-19th to mid-20th century, birds were a very popular motif among jewellers who used them to portray a desire for freedom, liberty and the ability to fly. One of the most famous peacock jewels from the 19th century was a brooch commissioned by Empress Eugenie in 1868, made by Mellerio. It was a naturalistic rendition of a peacock feather, with rows of diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires, typical of jewels at that time.
Till this very day, the peacock is considered a highly intriguing and challenging subject for masterful artisans and designers, where exquisite metalwork and the ingenious use of gemstones boast the power of imagination. Though many forerunners chose to render the magnificent bird in brooches, Swiss high jeweller Chopard decided on a completely different approach. The figurative depiction is highlighted by resplendent tail feathers that wrap around the wearer’s wrist.
This truly spectacular design is marked by numerous details that are worthy of closer study and appreciation. Aside from the dramatic scale of the bird’s tail, it’s opening mechanism and articulation called for utmost prevision in calculation and execution. It is not difficult to imagine the thousands of hours that went into the conception, study and realization of this magnificent design. Needless to say, this is a one-of-a-kind high jewellery creation that was singularly produced by the Maison. Its openwork structure keeps this masterpiece at a manageably light weight, so its lucky wearer can enjoy a fun and unique jewel while dining, or even dancing. One thing is for certain, no one can miss this conversational piece. This remarkable and majestic animal will happily rest on your arm if it is yours to keep.
At the age of 24, Louis-Ulysse Chopard started his company L.U.C. Chopard in Sonviller, Switzerland. Since the brand's inception in 1860, Chopard understood the need for thin and accurate pocket watches to be functional for daily wear. The brand gained world recognition in 1912 after Tsar Nicolas II became a client.
Following Louis-Ulysse's death in 1915, his sons Paul-Louis and Paul André took over the business and moved their headquarters to La Chaux-de-Fonds. In 1963, the company was taken over by Karl Scheufele, who remains the brand's owner. Arguably Chopard's most recognizable design, the "Happy" line, was inspired by Scheufele's daughter Caroline. In 1996, his son Karl-Friedrich established Chopard as a manufacturer of its own range of in-house movements under the name L.U.C., creating groundbreaking, exquisitely finished watches that have earned the brand worldwide acclaim.
