A fine and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with sweep center seconds and bracelet

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  • Condition Report

  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1967
    Reference No: 5512, case back stamped 5513
    Movement No: 93’621
    Case No: 1’799’912
    Model Name: Submariner, “Meters First”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 Jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped 7836, endlinks stamped 358, max length 200 mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 40 mm diameter
    Signed: Dial, case, movement and bracelet signed. Case back inscribed with service marks

  • Catalogue Essay

    An icon among icons — the Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 is always wearing a crown in the horological hall of fame. The idiosyncratic Oyster case, black rotating bezel, and iconic three-hand black dial design with perfectly balanced proportions is for many the singular most desirable wristwatch in the world. This present example from the 1967, with its matte dial and matching hands, clean case and crystal is an eye-popping example of a classic series.

    The most remarkable point of the watch is, however, the luminous materials that were applied to the hour markers and hands. In 1964, Rolex began applying tritium luminous material on gilt dials, signing chanced from “Swiss” to “Swiss – T<25” & “T-Swiss-T”. The matte dial with a new generation of tritium luminous was introduced in 1967, in which the tritium signings include “T Swiss T<25” or “σ T-Swiss-T σ”. The present example, made with a matte dial in the transitional year, appears to have been applied with the tritium luminous material for gilt dial, ergo reacting strongly under UV light. It is also worth noting that the tritium signing is “Swiss – T<25”. Made in the transitional year, this piece exemplifies Rolex’s never-ending pursuit in perfecting their watches.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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880

Rolex

Ref. 5512, case back stamped 5513
A fine and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with sweep center seconds and bracelet

勞力士,「Submariner, Meters First」型號5512,精細及罕有,精鋼自動上弦鏈帶腕錶,配中心秒針,約1967年製

Circa 1967
40 mm diameter
Dial, case, movement and bracelet signed. Case back inscribed with service marks

Estimate
HK$80,000 - 120,000 
$10,000-15,000

Place Advance Bid

Contact Specialist
Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
thomasperazzi@phillips.com
+852 2318 2030

Phillips & Blackbird: SPORTS

Hong Kong Auction 27 May 2019