An extremely rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date and "pumpkin" dial. Made for the Peruvian army

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1974
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D112'321
    Case No: 3'715'657
    Model Name: Single Red Pumpkin FAP Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Rubber strap
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel pin buckle
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    The present timepiece can be considered a “compendium” of Submariner rare traits, making it without a doubt one of the most appealing and collectible “Red Subs” to appear on the market to date.

    A second layer of appeal is also quite apparent and comes from the aging of the luminous material to an intense and extremely appealing yellow tonality, making this dial a so-called “Pumpkin” dial due the chromatic similarity with the vegetable.

    Finally, one has to turn the watch around to realize that the watch was sold to the Peruvian army, as the engraving proudly proclaims. The collector will rejoice when noticing that the finely engraved issue number (in this case “88”: it indeed brought good luck to the timepiece!) is still present. Any doubt that this might be a later associated case back is cleared away when one opens the watch and notices that the full case number is repeated inside the case back, linking beyond any doubt case body and case back.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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1185

Rolex

Ref. 1680
An extremely rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date and "pumpkin" dial. Made for the Peruvian army

勞力士,「Submariner」型號1680,非常罕有,軍用精鋼自動上弦鏈帶腕錶,配中心秒針、日期和「pumpkin」錶盤,特為秘魯軍方製作,約1974年製

Circa 1974
39mm Diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
HK$320,000 - 420,000 
€36,100-47,400
$41,000-53,800

sold for HK$475,000

Contact Specialist
Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
thomasperazzi@phillips.com
+852 2318 2030

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: EIGHT

Hong Kong Auction 28 May 2019