A Pair of Gold Earrings and Pendant

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    • Circa 1969

    • Georges L'Enfant

    • EARRINGS
      Signed, with French assay marks
      18 karat yellow gold, approximately 2.50 inches

      PENDANT
      Signed, with French assay marks
      18 karat yellow gold, approximately 2.75 inches

  • Catalogue Essay

    A universal status symbol since ancient times, gold is tactile, pliable, valuable, and simply beautiful. It is no surprise that it is the most coveted material in human adornment and arguably the most desirable mineral in the world. Jewelry made entirely of gold saw a remarkable resurgence during post World War II austerity, coinciding with new political movements and the rise of strong, independent women.

    During the 1960s and 1970s the Paris based workshop of George L’Enfant, later led by his son Jacques, created gold jewelry in intricate textures and patterns such as the ones featured here from the Optical Collection. In the book “La Livre de la Chaîne” Jacques describes how the “geometric and kinetic abstractions of the 1950s” inspired an “infinite” number of ideas and designs for his gold creations. Lots 61 and 62 are excellent examples of these design concepts featuring L’Enfants distinctly recognizable “tissu milanais” technique. This unique goldsmith technique contrasts rows of alternate textured matte against a polished finish in a pressed wavelike pattern. Varying circular and twist motifs, finely woven textures, and combinations of different colors of gold are all tell-tale combinations of signature L’Enfant creations.

    Both father and son were skilled designers, manufacturers, and master goldsmiths, sought after by the finest ateliers of their day. They were work-masters for Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, and Boivin to name a few. George registered his maker’s mark in 1909, but it wasn’t until the 1960s and 1970s that the L’Enfant workshop produced the identifiable, intricate, trademark textures and patterns, seen in the featured examples, that they are best known for today.

61

Property of a Miami Collector

A Pair of Gold Earrings and Pendant

Estimate
$5,000 - 7,000 

sold for $27,500

Contact Specialist
Susan Abeles
Head of Department, Americas and Senior International Specialist
New York
+1 212 940 1383
sabeles@phillips.com

Jewels

New York Auction 6 December 2018