PAUL BOUTROS, Head of Americas
Lot 60 – Patek Philippe Ref. 3448
There are some watches whose quality is so exceptional, they take your breath away the moment you lay eyes on them. That is exactly what happened the day I met with a descendent of the renowned American psychiatrist, the late Dr. Theodore I. Rubin. Once he unveiled this Patek Philippe reference 3448 that he described to me as being Dr. Rubin’s treasured watch, my jaw dropped – and then the biggest smile possible immediately overtook my face.
Purchased new from the prestigious watch and jewelry boutique, A l’Emeraude in Lausanne Switzerland, by his loving wife in 1967, Dr. Rubin took exquisite care of this ‘Padellone’ (named by collectors for its frying-pan shaped dial) throughout his lifetime. Wearing it only for the most special occasions, the watch is so well preserved that we knew immediately it deserved to be named, “The Pristine Padellone”. A first-series example manufactured in 1966, Its condition is truly remarkable. Its dial is bright and flawless, with all of its raised hard enamel printing perfectly crisp. Its case is razor sharp, retaining every original edge, facet, and all of its factory finishing as it left the factory nearly 55 years ago. A true lover of watches – lot 97, the pink gold Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi” is also from his collection - he kept its original box and certificate of origin, which accompany the watch.
Without a doubt, it’s the best-preserved ref. 3448 I’ve ever seen, and I’m certain it will take the breath away of any watch lover who has the opportunity to see it in person.
GEOFF HESS International Specialist & Head of Americas, Perpetual
Lot 19 - The 5517 Rolex Milsub
Issued watches were typically developed by contract from a branch of a country’s military or police force. Typically, the watches were uniquely designed with features to enable the wearer to use them in extreme or harsh conditions, either on land or at sea.
From G-Shocks to the full line of Dirty Dozen watches and beyond, the provenance of these watches reflect exactly the type of stories and history that virtually all watch collectors covet. They have become an integral part of the watch collecting community and interest in them has grown measurably in recent years.
In my view, the “top of the tree” in collecting military issued watches lies with Rolex, and specifically the genuinely iconic Rolex Milsub. And within the small bundle of surviving timepieces, the 5517 is widely-considered to be the ultimate grail. It is the most sought-after, having been manufactured exclusively for the British Ministry of Defense as a unique model, and in numbers believed to be no more than 150-200 from 1977-79.
The very first reference 5517 Phillips has ever offered, very few are known to have survived in “full spec” condition. The watch on offer in lot 19 represents the “best of the best” and can be considered full-spec in every way, down to the vintage nato strap attached to its unpolished case.
DOUG ESCRIBANO, Senior International Specialist
Lot 12 – Zenith El Primero
Chronograph wristwatches have always been a favourite complication amongst collectors, and mid-20th century stainless steel models are the epitome of classic horology. Not only are they rugged and durable, but today they are easily wearable in both casual and formal settings. With societal changes post World War II, Swiss manufacturers sought to meet a new and growing demand for timepieces that could withstand the rigors of the outdoors, and stainless steel was the ideal metal. Today, steel chronographs are ubiquitous, but they were a rarity in the 1950’s 60s and 70s. The Zenith El Primero chronograph is one of the most cherished models with its technologically innovative automatic movement, and high frequency insuring precision timekeeping. The present example comes from the family of the original owner and is in wonderful original condition. The registers and tachymeter have turned a lovely light brown hue giving the watch a “tropical” appeal. The El Primero is an icon, and this example is a pleasure to see in such excellent condition, and further it is accompanied by the original Zenith presentation box and El Primero instruction pamphlet.
ISABELLA PROIA, Specialist
Lot 37 – Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6239
My first trip to Geneva as a member of the Phillips team was in May 2018, and my first live Phillips Watches sale was the Daytona Ultimatum. You can’t imagine how in awe I was to be surrounded by the most beautiful Daytonas, attracting the most seasoned and high-powered collector – it was absolutely thrilling. I’ve seen a few Daytonas in the years since becoming part of the team, from early double-Swiss underlines to gem-set modern automatic versions, and they continue to excite and fascinate me, as a specialist and as a collector.
So when I received an e-mail with a single photo of a gold, manually-wound Daytona with a Paul Newman dial, I was obviously intrigued. I didn’t want to get my hopes up that it was as good as it looked. After corresponding with the consignors, to my overwhelming joy I realized that it was indeed better than it looked – an all-original reference 6239 with Paul Newman champagne dial in 18K yellow gold. It brought me back to that first sale, when we sold the “Golden Pagoda” in Daytona Ultimatum. And not only was this watch crisp, with a completely untouched dial, it was from the original owner’s family. They were gracious and kind and an absolute pleasure to talk to about their family member’s life and legacy, and I cannot overstate our gratitude that they trusted us to sell this piece of their history.
DANIELLA ROSA, Business Development Manager
Lot 31 – Rolex Datejust Pearlmaster
One of Rolex’s most beloved models by the collecting community happens to be one of my favorites as well. The Datejust was introduced by Rolex in 1945 to celebrate the brand’s 40th anniversary. Over the years, the Datejust model has been continuously modified to adapt to evolving tastes and styles, including the introduction of precious stones to the bezel and dial in the 1980s. I’m always impressed with gem-set Rolex models. The stones continuously appear flawless and cut to perfection, and the colors chosen are always cohesive. I have a special appreciation for Rolex Datejusts as my first vintage watch purchase was a Datejust in steel with a black glossy dial. Similar to my beloved Datejust, this highly rare, white gold, sapphire and diamond set model is classy and casual - an everyday watch with a little more edge!
JENNIFER CHUNG, Administrator
Lot 33 – Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3800/3J
Have you ever come across a watch that you fell in love with at first sight? For me, the Patek Philippe reference 3800/3J holds a special place in my heart because it is, in my opinion, the most perfect unisex sports watch in modern times. We are very fortunate to offer three different iterations of the ref. 3800 Nautilus in this year’s New York flagship auction; the ref. 3800/1A in stainless steel with semi-glossy black dial and Roman numerals, the ref. 3800/1JA with mixed metal case and Roman numerals, and last but not least, the present ref. 3800/3J encased in yellow gold with diamond-set bezel and indexes on a champagned dial. Although I was formerly a fan of the Nautilus model in stainless steel for its light and versatile wear, the present lot proved otherwise. Measuring 37.5mm in diameter and featuring the ultra-thin, in-house caliber 330 194, the watch wears perfectly on my wrist and exudes a subtle flair that isn’t too lavish but just right. Offered in like-new, hardly worn condition, this beautiful, monochromatic variation of the 3800 is certainly not one to miss!