- By Tiffany To
This weekend, with over 250 lots offered, there are timepieces that may elude even the most seasoned collector. Chosen for their rarity and aesthetics, below are seven standout timepieces – all under 25,000 CHF – that deliver maximum impact and undoubtedly bring sheer horological and aesthetic pleasure to any beholder.
Lot 21 - Omega stainless steel wristwatch with two-tone sector dial
This oversized, exceedingly good-looking timepiece has so much to offer beyond its initial (and conservative) estimate. Displaying an incredibly large and striking 38 mm case, it has a very arresting black and silvered dial with “telephone” gilt numerals. The combination between the colors and depth of the dial is stunning. As an even nicer touch, the case is preserved in exceptionally sharp condition with sharp facets and crisp edges throughout, which is very remarkable, considering the age of the timepiece.
Lot 64 - Cartier Ref. 1734D Platinium Limited Edition
Along with lot 65, this Tank Américaine is cased in platinum and displays dark green numerals. Incredibly eye catching, elegant and striking, it was made for the Italian market in 30 examples only. To date, only a handful of examples have come back on the auction market, underscoring its rarity. It is furthermore accompanied by its original certificate confirming the present watch is part of a limited edition series and presentation box.
It is very rare for Cartier to produce a limited edition series - and when they do, it is for only a very highly limited number of watches. Together with lot 65, these two watches showcase Italian collectors' extraordinary relationship with La Maison. It is only thanks to their dedication and passion that the manufacture would produce such beautiful and unusual timepieces dedicated to the region.
Lot 76 - Vacheron Constantin Ref. 4775 yellow gold with angled lugs
This charming and extremely well-preserved Vacheron Constantin reference 4775 has great provenance and was originally sold at the fabled The Quarter Millennium of Vacheron Constantin sale on April 3, 2005 for almost three times the current estimate!
Preserved in impressive condition, the case displays wide and angled flared lugs that give inspiration to the name "Papillon". A crisp hallmarks is visible between the lugs. Furthermore, the dial displays a beautiful hard enamel signature that remains raised and visible.
Lot 106 - Rolex Ref. 1803 white gold and diamond-set calendar with green lacquer dégradé dial and bracelet
A personal favourite of mine, this reference 1803 with green dégradé lacquer dial is stunning – even more so in the flesh. It’s incredibly rare to see white gold Day-Dates fitted with green lacquer dials, no less with such a spectacular condition with no cracks or flaking on the lumes.
Rolex’s colorful lacquer dials were fitted in Day-Date models made from the 1960s to the 1990s, coming in various colors of the spectrum and fitted in yellow gold, pink gold, white gold and even platinum cases. Since the firm ceased their production, these colorful lacquered dials have now achieved cult status amongst collectors and purists.
Lot 107 - Rolex Ref. 1655 Explorer II
Rolex launched the Explorer II in 1971, which provided a fresh update to the existing ‘Explorer’ line. Designed as a versatile aide for intrepid explorers, the bright orange luminous 24-hour triangle tipped hand glowed under any light condition.
Displaying a "Mk 4" dial which is correct for the serial number, the present watch is preserved in excellent condition with crisp edges and bevels. Furthermore, the dial has aged beautifully and now displays an strong and charismatic "pumpkin" patina - a detail that is highly sought after by collectors today.
With the rise in value of Rolex sports models, this timepiece provides great value for its wearer, both in terms of price and aesthetics.
Lot 212 - Roger Dubuis Hommage H40
An absolute sight to behold, the present watch is one of the most striking timepieces in the sale. Based on the Lemania 2310 movement, this single button chronograph is an early example made before the brand's sale to Richemont. Originally made in a series of 28 examples, the H40 is a sight to behold and displays incredible details that would impress even the most fastidious watch purist. Firstly, the movement is based upon the Lemania 2310 ébauche - just like the famed Patek Philippe reference 5070. The movement proudly displays the Geneva seal - an exceptional feat for a small, at the time independent watchmaker. On top of that, it was certified by the Besançon Observatory. Finally, the dial itself is beautiful. Displaying Breguet numerals, feuille hands and a grené black dial, it is reminiscent of the vintage chronographs in the past, while displaying its own aesthetic flourishes.
The watch itself offers even more than just technical prowess and good looks - it represents a period of time, when now-household names such as F.P. Journe, Philippe Dufour and Roger Smith were experimenting, producing their very first prototypes, pushing the boundaries of watchmaking and re-defining the meaning of watchmaking. Industry veterans will look back at this golden period of horology as the cradle of Independent Watchmaking, with doses of both pride and nostalgia.
Lot 265 - Lang & Heyne Friedrich III
Delivering absolutely maximum value, this timepiece by Lang & Heyn is offered without reserve, yet boasts the following features:
1) The plates, bridges and balance cock are given a fine grainy appearance then gold plated
2) Each screw is meticulously hand polished and blued, the workshops produce less than 15 screws a day!
3) Every wheel is made of gold with chamfered spokes which run precisely and with the least possible friction.
4) Gold chatons in the purest Saxon tradition
5) Hand engraved balance cock
6) Diamond end stone
With execution of the highest level, this timepiece represents the values and technological strides of 21st century watchmaking – and is a custom order piece, no less!