Vacheron Constantin, Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar
Alex Ghotbi, Head of Sale in Geneva
Vacheron Constantin, Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar
The biggest watchmakers are supposed to innovate. Vacheron Constantin has done so many times in the past, and charges forward this year with the Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, probably one of its most technically interesting watches in recent years. It is powered by a new movement that features two escapements beating at different frequencies, 5 hertz and 1.2 hertz.
Vacheron Constantin, Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar
When the watch isn't worn, the lower frequency can be selected in order to set aside the watch for longer - up to 65 days according to the brand - without losing any time. Incredibly, Vacheron Constantin could do all that while keeping the thickness of the calibre down to 6mm.
Marcello De Marco, Specialist and Business Development Associate
A. Lange & Söhne, Zeitwerk Date
Merging tradition and innovation, and doing so with sublime aesthetic balance and elegance, the Zeitwerk Date swiftly climbed to the top of my wishlist the moment I saw it. A. Lange & Söhne has proven many times it is capable of innovating without ever sacrificing a kernel of its Teutonic elegance - a premium exmaple being the unique stainless steel 1815 “Homage to Walter Lange” - and the new Zeitwerk date perfectly exemplifies this virtue. Undeniably a contemporary creation, defined by the brand's trademark large windows and generous case proportions, it also incorporates design elements inherited from the golden age of watchmaking.
A. Lange & Söhne, Zeitwerk Date
The new date ring reminds me of early twentieth century watchmaking but instead of using a central hand to indicate the date, a red marker placed under the dial highlights the current date.
Tiffany To, Specialist
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST
There's been a lot of talk about the true colour of the dial, whether it's pink, salmon, or off-gold. But it doesn't matter because the jury is unanimous: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15202BC is an incredibly good-looking watch. I have an affinity for Royal Oaks, particularly those cased in white metal.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST
And while the manufacture has produced a similar steel model in the past, this particular extra-slim iteration feels incredibly novel, while retaining the DNA and design codes that we know so well and love today.
Virginie Liatard-Roessli, Specialist
Hermès, Arceau L’Heure de la Lune
The Moon Phase is one of my favourite complications. It has a romantic, dreamy quality. However, their design may sometimes be a little classical. With the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune, Hermès steps up to the challenge by creating - thanks to a new and patented module added to its in-house caliber H1837 - a double display of moon phases as seen from the Northern and Southern hemispheres.
Hermès, Arceau L’Heure de la Lune
As always with Hermès, there's more magic in the details. When looking a little closer, one will see appearing on the mother of pearl moon design of the Southern hemisphere a subtly engraved Pegasus. Inspiring, definitely innovative and legitimate, this wristwatch is the piece I was most looking forward to see in the metal, and it does keep its promises!
Arthur Touchot, Specialist and Head of Digital
F.P. Journe, Tourbillon Souverain Vertical
I'm going to bend the rules here a little. I saw some amazing pieces at SIHH 2019 - many of which my colleagues have already mentioned - so I'm going to highlight another piece released last week in Geneva, but one that wasn't shown at the fair. It's the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical and it's François-Paul Journe's latest tourbillon. It's been twenty years since Journe created his first Tourbillon Souverain - a watch we recently had the opportunity to spend time with - but clearly he believes he still has room to improve - which is why I love and respect the watches he creates.
F.P. Journe, Tourbillon Souverain Vertical
In this piece, which also boasts a remontoire d'égalité and a natural deadbeat seconds, the high-speed tourbillon is mounted perpendicular to the dial at 9 o'clock to minimise positional errors, whether the watch is worn on the wrist or lies flat.