By Arthur Touchot
Here's a watch that recently came across my desk which I simply had to share because it struck me as a reminder that there are still plenty of killer vintage watches that just don't get the exposure they deserve.
First off, because it's a single-button Lemania chronograph, which I love. They're some of the most satisfying watches to operate and they just have this way of taking you back in time, to the beginnings of the complicated mechanical wristwatch. However, that's not what makes this watch special.
This, believe it or not, is a military-issued watch. Now, I know what you're thinking. There's no lume! All military watches have lume! And you're right, they do. Except for this one. And there's a very good reason for that; these were sent all the way to the bottom of the Ocean in nuclear submarines where radioactive compound is most definitely not welcome.
These watches were delivered during the mid-1960s to coincide with the commissioning of the United Kingdom's first nuclear submarine, and they would have been the latest in a long list of single-button chronographs Lemania produced for the British military. The general shape of these watches evolved over time to become asymmetrical (in order to protect the push piece), but the movements remained almost identical in their construction. This one here is part of the third series of military mono-pushers delivered to the British military and it looks a little different to the others.
They were made with black dials and luminous compound on the dial and hands, which is exactly what you want if you're about to cross into enemy lines at night, but isn't as well-suited for missions on a military submarine that's equipped with highly sensitive radiation detectors. The Navy, therefore, requested a small batch of watches without any luminous compound on the dial.
The result is this striking 'ghost' dial chronograph with large sub-registers, black hands and black indexes. The presence of an incabloc system in the movement is also painted in black on the dial, while the Tritium designation was removed from the dial when these were repurposed for the Royal Navy. The chronograph button is located at 2 o'clock and is protected by the asymmetry of the case.
Signs that this is indeed a military watch can only be found on back of the caseback, where specific markings indicate this watch was delivered to the Royal Navy — all watches issued to that branch of the Ministry of Defence (and this is true for watches from other brands) were engraved with the number '0552'.
The crossed-out "3306" confirms the watch was re-issued, this time to a Royal Navy nuclear submarine officer.
This one was made in 1964 — just one year after the Royal Navy commissioned its first nuclear submarine, the HMS Dreadnought, into service — and it is preserved in fantastic condition. In fact, it's the best example of a Lemania Nuclear Sub I've ever come across, and that inevitably brings us to the question of the watch's value.
The prices of military pieces have been picking up for years, but the category has been led by well- known pieces such as the Rolex Milsub and the Breguet Type XX—watches that are on the larger side and have graduated bezels.
It's no coincidence the slightly smaller pieces, such as this Lemania Nuclear Sub measuring 39mm in diameter, which do not appear to have a specific military 'function', have been flying under the radar. They are very difficult to find and served as important tools for the officers who received them, making them deserving of collectors' attention.
As the public becomes aware of the existence and importance of these military-issued Lemania chronographs, I expect demand for them to continue to grow. There is no doubt in my mind these watches are some of the most interesting special issue watches. I mean, this watch spent time on board a nuclear submarine. How amazing is that?