Our final live auction of the spring 2025 season, the New York Watch Auction: XII, takes place on 7-8 June, at our Manhattan headquarters. The auction includes 140 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it’s one of the best catalogues we've ever put together. We'll highlight several of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale over the next few weeks, including the watches highlighted in this article.
– By Logan Baker
Lot 27: A Circa 2021 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Supersonnerie Ref. 26591Ti in Titanium
Estimate: USD $200,000 - 400,000
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Supersonnerie marries the unmistakable Royal Oak aesthetic with one of watchmaking’s most coveted complications: the minute repeater.
The Supersonnerie concept first debuted in 2014, a groundbreaking evolution in acoustic performance that Audemars Piguet treated more like a musical instrument than a watch. Three patents underpin its design – one for the gongs, another for a refined regulator, and a third for the specially engineered caseback with apertures to amplify sound even when worn. The result? A louder, clearer chime that’s just as resonant on the wrist as it is off.
This 2021 limited edition of 20 pieces is housed in a lightweight 42mm titanium case; it refines AP's original concept with a smoked grey grande tapisserie dial that’s as moody as it is mesmerizing. A subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock keeps the layout clean, while the sound wave engraving on the caseback nods to the Supersonnerie’s unique acoustic prowess.
Consigned by its original owner and accompanied by its full set of accessories, this rare Royal Oak is estimated at $200,000 – $400,000 – a perfect blend of horological innovation and signature sport-luxe design.
Lot 14: A Circa 2023 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 26579CS in Blue Ceramic
Estimate: USD $250,000 - 500,000
Audemars Piguet’s ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar has been a hit since the black version first dropped in 2017, followed by the white in 2019. But in 2022, they took things up a notch with a jaw-dropping blue ceramic edition – a bold twist for the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak.
This 41mm marvel is as technically impressive as it is visually striking. The ceramic construction requires 600 hours of meticulous finishing, with mirror-polished bevels that contrast sharply against the brushed surfaces of the case and bracelet. The blue grande tapisserie dial features a photorealistic moonphase set against an aventurine sky, along with a 52-week calendar and leap-year indicator.
Consigned by its original owner and presented in virtually unworn condition, this blue ceramic Royal Oak is a testament to Audemars Piguet’s ability to push boundaries while respecting tradition.
With its limited availability and undeniable wrist presence, it’s a modern icon that’s as elusive as it is electrifying.
Lot 59: A 2022 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Ref. 26730OR in 18k Pink Gold
Estimate: USD $150,000 - 300,000
For the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak in 2022, Audemars Piguet pulled out all the stops – including the debut of a flying tourbillon Royal Oak in pink gold.
This ref. 26730 pairs the legendary Royal Oak design with a modern mechanical marvel: the calibre 2950, AP’s first-ever self-winding flying tourbillon.
It’s a striking contrast – the rich warmth of pink gold against a smoked blue dial, with the tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock spinning in full view. The 41mm case is unmistakably Royal Oak, from the signature octagonal bezel to the integrated bracelet with mirror-polished bevels and brushed links. And as a nod to its 50th-anniversary release, the engraved rotor adds a touch of historical significance to an already impressive movement.
Consigned by the original owner and offered with its complete set of accessories, this limited production model is perfect for collectors seeking a modern Royal Oak that combines AP’s storied complication expertise with contemporary style.
Lot 43: A 1985 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5554BA in 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: USD $100,000 - 200,000
In 1984, Audemars Piguet did something unprecedented – they put a perpetual calendar into a Royal Oak case, creating the first-ever sports watch with a high calendar complication. This ref. 5554, later renamed ref. 25554, was a declaration that traditional fine watchmaking could also be sporty.
The present example, crafted in yellow gold and dating to 1985, is a remarkable early specimen of this groundbreaking model. The 39mm case remains exceptionally well-preserved, with crisp lines, sharp bevels, and intact hallmarks. Its dial is equally pristine, featuring the telltale three-dot indices at 3, 9, and 12 o’clock and a moonphase display with a subtle signature underneath – markers of first-generation pieces. Notably, early iterations like this one omit the leap year indicator, which only appeared with the caliber 2120/2802 in 1993.
Consigned by its original owner and accompanied by an extract from the archives, this yellow gold Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is a rare opportunity to own a piece of horological history – a watch that helped set the stage for today’s luxury sports watch market.
Lot 41: A Circa 2000 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Ref. 25960BA in 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: USD $30,000 - 60,000
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 25960 exemplifies the brand’s ability to seamlessly merge sport and luxury. Produced in a range of materials, this 39mm yellow gold version takes things up a notch with its striking black dial.
The petite tapisserie pattern adds texture and depth, while the luminous white markers and hands provide a crisp contrast against the dark backdrop. It’s a bold, sporty aesthetic that amplifies the watch’s visual impact while maintaining the Royal Oak’s signature graphic precision.
This particular example, preserved in superb condition, still shows the original factory satin-brushed surfaces and sharp bevels.
Offered with its full set of accessories, it’s a snapshot of a time when the Royal Oak Chronograph was still evolving, just before it became a cornerstone of Audemars Piguet’s modern lineup.
Lot 57: A 2022 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15510BC in 18k White Gold with Pale Blue Dial and Diamond Hour Markers
Estimate: USD $50,000 - 100,000
In 1972, Audemars Piguet and designer Gérald Genta forever changed the watch industry with the Royal Oak – a luxury sports watch that dared to put stainless steel on a pedestal. Exactly fifty years later, the ref. 15510ST paid homage to that original breakthrough while pushing the design into new territory.
The present example, however, takes things a step further. Crafted in 18k white gold and released in 2022 as a limited edition of just 100 pieces, it’s a modern take on the classic design. The dial is a light blue grande tapisserie adorned with baguette-cut diamond hour markers. Inside, the watch houses the calibre 4302, AP’s upgraded automatic movement introduced in 2019 as the successor to the caliber 3120.
Lot 45: A Circa 2023 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Jumbo' Ref. 16202BC in 18k White Gold with Diamond Setting
Estimate: USD $120,000 - 240,000
Audemars Piguet’s ref. 16202BC.ZZ.1241BC.01 is the kind of watch that demands attention – and not just because it’s a Royal Oak. Crafted in white gold and dripping in diamonds, it’s the successor to the ref. 15202BC.ZZ.1241BC.01, retaining the gem-studded extravagance while packing a more robust movement, the calibre 7121.
The dial alone is a spectacle, set with 422 diamonds arranged in concentric circles, creating a hypnotic effect. The AP logo floats above the dial, applied directly to the crystal. Meanwhile, the case and bracelet boast another 1,106 diamonds, bringing the total carat weight to 8.292. Despite its opulence, the 39mm case remains remarkably comfortable on the wrist.
Lot 6: A Circa 2023 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Jumbo' Ref. 16202BA in 18k Yellow Gold
Estimate: USD $50,000 - 100,000
To mark the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary, Audemars Piguet revisited one of its most iconic designs with a twist – the "Jumbo" ref. 16202BA in 18k yellow gold. This 39mm tribute to the original "Jumbo" ref. 5402 features a dial that’s anything but subtle. The smoked yellow gold gradient dial transitions from a warm, sunlit center to a dark, smoky periphery – an attractive contrast that brings a whole new dimension to the signature petite tapisserie dial motif.
Inside, the in-house caliber 7121 takes over from the longtime caliber 2121, delivering a 55-hour power reserve and a new quick-set date function. The yellow gold applied markers and luminous hands accentuate the fiery dial, while the date window is seamlessly matched to maintain the dial’s visual harmony.
Lot 15: A 1978 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST 'C-Series' in Stainless Steel
Estimate: USD $30,000 - 60,000
The Royal Oak ref. 5402 is the watch that started it all – the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch. Launched in 1972 and designed by Gérald Genta, it set the stage for an entire genre of high-end steel watches. But by 1978, Audemars Piguet was already refining the Royal Oak, producing small, nuanced changes across its A, B, C, and D series.
This particular example is a C-Series, and it’s a gem. The 39mm case houses the ultra-slim caliber 2121, a movement originally developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre and later adopted by AP, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. The dial is a standout – a rich blue petite tapisserie with subtle coppery flecks that catch the light, giving it a dynamic, almost iridescent quality. The AP logo is positioned at 6 o’clock, as found on early A and B series as well as some C-series pieces.
Consigned by its original owner and accompanied by its guarantee and presentation box, this C-Series Royal Oak is a snapshot of Audemars Piguet’s early mastery of the steel luxury sports watch.
Lot 104: A Circa 1972 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402ST 'A-Series' in Stainless Steel
Estimate: USD $25,000 - 50,000
In 1972, Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak, a watch that changed the luxury watch landscape forever.
It was a bold move – a stainless steel sports watch priced higher than many gold dress watches of the era. The 39mm case, with its octagonal bezel secured by white gold screws, was nicknamed the “Jumbo” for its imposing size, and the tapisserie dial became a defining feature.
The present example is a coveted “A Series” Royal Oak, one of the very first iterations of the ref. 5402. It retains its factory service dial with the AP logo positioned at six o’clock. The watch also comes on its original bracelet, further underscoring its vintage appeal.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire New York Watch Auction: XII catalogue right here.