– By Logan Baker
What began at Phillips in 2018 as a way to thoughtfully address the challenges posed by CITES regulations and the need for durable, elegant replacements for aging vintage straps has evolved into a fascinating project involving our entire team.
A deliberate focus on materials is at the heart of our in-house strap collection. For the manufacture of these straps, the watch department selected three types of leather, across three generations, each chosen for its durability and aesthetic versatility.
- First Generation: Nubuck Suede Leather – Known for its velvety texture, this leather exudes a casual elegance, ideal for collectors seeking a more relaxed look. (2018-2020)
- Second Generation: Grained Calfskin – Embossed with a small, defined grain, this leather balances sophistication and utility, making it versatile for both modern and vintage watches. (2020-2022)
- Third Generation: Smooth Calfskin – Elegant and refined, this leather is the epitome of understatement, offering a timeless pairing for dressier watches. (2022-2024)
- We're also pleased to announce that a fourth generation of our straps will be unveiled in the coming months.
All three leathers are sourced from the renowned Italian leather workshops in Emilia-Romagna, a region celebrated for its artisanal approach to crafting leather goods for the most discerning clientele. These are the same types of leather that find their way into high-end handbags, jackets, and shoes, ensuring that the straps are beautiful and resistant to wear—a practical consideration for collectors who wear their watches daily.
One of the standout features of these straps is the “Phillips seam,” a design nod to vintage watch straps commonly used between the 1930s and the 1950s. This stitching detail, placed between the lugs, was conceptualized by none other than Aurel Bacs, our Senior Consultant and lead auctioneer. Alexandre Ghotbi, meanwhile, directed the execution of these seams and the straps’ overall flexibility.
The straps are assembled by hand, ensuring precision and individuality, but they rely on machine cutting for consistent accuracy.
The leather is treated using water-based and vegetable tanning methods and a white-tanning technique that ensures a supple yet durable finish.
The leathers remain unembellished for the Nubuck and aniline calfskin used in the first and third production runs, showcasing their natural texture and charm. In contrast, the grained calfskin from the second production run incorporates a small printed grain for a more structured appearance.
Our decision to produce our own internal line of straps stemmed from practical concerns.
Finding straps that preserve the integrity of an original look can be challenging for vintage watches, especially when dealing with worn or exotic materials that no longer meet modern ethical standards. By taking the process in-house, we can sidestep these issues while offering a superior product tailored to collectors' needs.
Lead image is of the second-generation grained calfskin.