Priority Bidding is here! Secure a lower Buyer’s Premium today (excludes Online Auctions and Watches). Learn More

64

Universal

Ref. 22’560

An extremely rare, oversized and important stainless steel pilot’s split-seconds chronograph wristwatch with silver-colored 24-hour dial signed “A. Cairelli”, made for the Italian Army.

Estimate
CHF60,000 - 120,000
CHF197,000
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Universal
Year
1955
Reference No
22’560
Movement No
2602
Case No
62
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. Valjoux 55, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel
Dimensions
44.5mm diameter
Signed
Case, dial and movement signed. Caseback further engraved “AMI Cronometro per Navigaz. Astronom. Tipo HA-1. N. Categ. 19620 MM. 200026”
Accessories
The present watch is accompanied by an Extract from the Archives confirming the present watch was manufactured in the 1950s.
Catalogue Essay
In the hierarchy of collectible Universal Genève wristwatches, the present split-seconds chronograph occupies the very top position in terms of rarity, desirability, and importance. One of its most fascinating attributes is the unusual 24-hour dial. Made for aviators, the watch always indicates military, 24-hour time that assisted with their navigational calculations. Measuring an impressive 44.5 mm in diameter, its exceptional size was designed to maximize legibility when worn for missions.

Above all, its stand out feature is the movement that powers it. Featuring the most prestigious type of chronograph complication, a split-seconds, the caliber housed within is the large Valjoux 55 – the same extraordinary caliber that is used in the revered Rolex reference 4113.

Signed “A. Cairelli”, this signature found at 6 o’clock on the dial is that of one of the finest retailers in the world. They supplied the Italian Air Force, or Aeronautica Militaire Italiana (AMI), with what are now some of the most important military timepieces in the watch collecting field.

Further enhancing its desirability, the military provenance is indicated on the caseback where it is crisply engraved “AMI CRONOMETRO PER NAVIGA. ASTRONOM. TIPO HA-1. N.CATEG.19620 MM. 200026”.
This Marina Militare (MM) inscription uniquely distinguishes this piece and makes the find that much more intriguing.

Universal

Swiss | 1894
Universal Genève was founded in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1894 and was originally known as "Universal Watch." Since its inception, Universal Genève has produced watches with unusually high quality for their price point. Universal was among the first brands to introduce a chronograph wristwatch.
Today, the firm's vintage models are highly sought-after and desired for their oversized cases and interesting dial designs. Key models include a variety of "Compax" models such as the "Nina Rindt" or "Evil Nina," the Uni-Compax, the Space-Compax, the Aero-Compax and the Film-Compax.
Browse Maker